Guide to choosing the right needle size for sewing machine
Choosing the right needle is as important as choosing the right fabric for a sewing project so knowledge of needle sizes and kinds can go a long way in enhancing your sewing projects here is a guide to all the needle sizes that is going to assist you in knowing which fabric is good for which needle size. -
1.Universal Needle
The universal needle is one of the most flexible types of needles, allowing use on different types of fabrics as it has a slightly rounded tip that makes it capable of sewing through both woven and knit materials.
Best For:
- Most fabric types, including cotton, linen, and blends.
- Everyday sewing projects.
Recommended Sizes:
- 70/10 for lightweight fabrics (e.g., silk).
- 80/12 for medium-weight fabrics (e.g., quilting cotton).
- 90/14 for heavier fabrics (e.g., canvas).
2.Ballpoint Needle
It should be noted that a ballpoint needle is used for sewing knit fabrics only. The round tip enables it to glide between the strands in flexible fabrics without severing them, reducing fraying. It is ideal for fabrics that tend to shrink and stretch and is very useful in creating any type of garment from tee shirts to leggings.
Best For:
- Light knits and stretchy fabrics.
- T-shirts and lightweight sweaters.
Recommended Sizes:
- 70/10 for lightweight knits.
- 90/14 for heavier stretch fabrics.
3. Jersey Needle
The jersey needle has a rounded tip just like a ballpoint needle which ensures smooth sewing without skipping stitches making it ideal for very stretchy materials.
Best For:
- Very stretchy materials, including spandex and jersey knits.
- Projects that require a soft finish, like fitted garments.
Recommended Sizes:
- 70/10 for lighter jersey fabrics.
- 90/14 for heavier jersey materials.
4. Heavy Duty Needle
The heavy-duty needles have a thicker shaft and a sharp point so that they can penetrate through multiple layers of heavy materials without breaking them apart so this needle is ideal if you frequently work with thicker fabrics.
Best For:
- Thick fabrics such as denim, canvas, faux and leather.
- Projects requiring robust stitching.
Recommended Size:
- 100/16 for heavy-weight fabrics.
- 110/18 for even thicker materials
5. Leather Needle
Leather needles are specially designed for sewing leather and vinyl because they have a wedge-shaped point that allows them to pierce leather without tearing it.
Best For:
- Leather and vinyl projects, including bags and garments.
- Stitching plastic-coated fabrics.
Recommended Sizes:
- 90/14 for thinner leather.
- 100/16 for thicker leather.
6. Twin Needle
The twin needle is a unique tool that allows for two parallel rows of stitching at once making it useful for hems and decorative stitching on stretchy fabrics, giving garments a professional finish.
Best For:
- T-shirt hems and decorative topstitching.
- Creating a cover stitch effect on knit fabrics.
Recommended Sizes:
- Available in various sizes; choose based on the fabric weight.
Needle Sizes Explained
Needle sizes indicate the thickness of the needle, and they are often displayed in two systems: the American system (8-18) and the European system (60-110). Here's a basic breakdown of what these sizes mean:
- Size 8/60: Very fine fabrics (e.g., silk, organza).
- Size 10/70: Lightweight fabrics (e.g., chiffon, tulle).
- Size 12/80: Standard weight fabrics (e.g., cotton, basic quilting).
- Size 14/90: Heavier fabrics (e.g., linen, light denim).
- Size 16/100: Very heavy fabrics (e.g., thick cotton, upholstery).
- Size 18/110: Extra heavy fabrics (e.g., leather, heavy canvas).
Tips for using sewing needles -
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Start with a Universal Needle: If you are not sure about which needle to go for you should try Universal needle 12 (80) as it is ideal for most of the projects you are going to do.
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Match the Needle to the Fabric: You must also take into consideration the weight and stretch of your fabric when choosing a needle. Thicker fabrics require larger-sized needles than thin fabrics do.
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Test on Scraps: However, evaluate your needles and stitches on a scrap material of the fabric type you intend to work with before you begin.
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Change Regularly: The tip of needles becomes blunt with frequent use and hence it is recommended to change the needles often.