A ruffler foot is a special sewing machine attachment designed to create evenly spaced pleats or gathers in fabric or adding ruffles to garments, home decor items, or creating decorative effects on fabrics. The ruffler foot works by automatically pleating or gathering fabric as you sew, making it much easier and faster than doing the same thing manually as it typically has an adjustable setting that lets you control how frequently the pleats are made and how deep or shallow the pleats are.

Lets now understand its structure and its parts to know it better.

Parts of The Bernina Ruffler Presser Foot - 

Foot Plate:

• The main part that attaches to the sewing machine. It has a special design that helps feed the fabric through, allowing it to form pleats. This plate holds the fabric in place as the needle stitches it.

Adjustable Pleat Mechanism:

• This part allows you to control the frequency of the pleats. You can set it to pleat every stitch (for a very full ruffle), every few stitches (such as every 6 or 12 stitches), or even set it to not pleat at all, depending on the setting. It can be adjusted to control how spaced out the pleats are.

Fabric Clip:

• Some rufflers have a small clip that helps hold the fabric in place while it's being pleated. This ensures that the fabric feeds evenly into the pleating mechanism.

Needle Opening:

• This is the hole or opening through which the needle passes. It is critical that the needle lines up properly with this hole so it doesn't hit the ruffler's metal parts and cause damage or stitching problems.

Adjustment Screw (for Pleat Depth):

• This screw adjusts how deep or shallow the pleats will be. Turning this screw controls the amount of fabric that gets pulled to create a pleat. Deeper pleats will result in a fuller ruffle, while shallower pleats will give a gentler, more subtle effect.

Spring Mechanism:

• This is responsible for pushing the fabric to form pleats as the needle moves down. The spring ensures that the fabric is gathered properly as the needle takes each stitch.

Needle Bar Slot:

• The ruffler foot slides over the needle bar, and the needle passes through this slot while sewing. This ensures the pleating mechanism moves in sync with the needle.

STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO USING A RUFFLER FOOT -

1. Attach the Ruffler Foot

• Remove the regular presser foot: Lift the presser foot lever on your sewing machine and remove the standard foot.
• Attach the ruffler foot: Place the ruffler foot onto the presser foot holder. The foot should be positioned so that it snaps securely in place, much like any other presser foot. Make sure the foot is aligned with the needle bar.

2. Set the Needle Position

• Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and we recommend using a straight stitch plate to ensure only straight stitches are used
• Ensure that the needle is centered or positioned according to your machine's setup for straight stitching.

• Some machines may require adjusting the needle position slightly when using the ruffler foot for optimal function.
•  90/14 needle is recommended, and it should be tightened properly to avoid loosening during sewing.

3. Adjust the Pleat Settings

The ruffler foot has various settings to control how the fabric is pleated:

• Pleat Frequency -  Adjust the lever or dial on the foot to select how often you want the pleats to occur. Common settings are:

• "1" pleats every stitch (more fullness).

• "6" pleats every 6 stitches (less fullness).

• "12" pleats every 12 stitches.

• "Star" disables pleating entirely (used for sewing without pleats, such as around curves).

•  Pleat Depth Adjustment:

This adjustment controls how deep or shallow the pleats are. The adjustment screw on the ruffler allows you to choose different depths, which can vary based on the fabric you are using.

For example, settings may range from 1 mm to 8 mm, with the deeper settings creating more pronounced pleats.

These settings allow you to customize how your fabric will be gathered or pleated as it moves through the foot.

 

4. Thread the Machine

• Make sure the machine is threaded properly, as you would for any normal sewing project. Ensure both the upper thread and bobbin thread are in place.

5. Prepare Your Fabric

 Make sure your fabric is the appropriate width to fit under the ruffler foot. It should sit flat against the plate and be aligned with the edge of the foot. Lightweight or medium-weight fabrics work best, but heavier fabrics can be used with proper adjustments.Lightweight fabrics like cotton, chiffon, and tulle tend to gather more easily, so you might need a bit more fabric to achieve the same ruffle size. Heavier fabrics (like denim or upholstery fabric) will gather less, so you may need less fabric.

When you gather fabric with a ruffler foot, the length of the fabric decreases, depending on how tight or loose the pleats are. The fabric will usually be shortened by a factor of 2 to 4 times, depending on the ruffler settings.

• Tighter Pleats (every stitch or every few stitches): You will need more fabric, as it will be pleated tightly.
• Looser Pleats (every 6 or 12 stitches): You will need less fabric, as the pleats will be further apart.

To estimate how much fabric you will need, use the following guideline:

• For 1:1 Pleats (every stitch): Multiply your finished length (the length of fabric after pleating) by 4 to 5 times.
• Example: If your finished length needs to be 1 yard, you would need approximately 4 to 5 yards of fabric.
• For 1:6 or 1:12 Pleats (looser pleats): Multiply the finished length by 2 to 3 times.
• Example: If your finished length needs to be 1 yard, you would need approximately 2 to 3 yards of fabric.
• For Moderate Pleats (1:3 ratio): Multiply the finished length by 3 to 4 times.
• Example: For a 1-yard finished length, you would need 3 to 4 yards of fabric.

For accurate fabric requirements, measure the exact length of the area that you want to ruffle. For example, if you’re making a ruffled skirt, measure the circumference of the waist or hem where the ruffles will go. Then, determine how much you want to gather it. Here’s an example:

• If your waist is 30 inches and you want the fabric to gather to 12 inches with a 1:4 pleat ratio, you’ll need 30 inches x 4 = 120 inches (10 feet) of fabric.

6. Set Your Machine Settings

• Use a regular stitch length, typically between 2-3mm, depending on the desired outcome.
• Make sure your tension settings are balanced for the fabric you’re using. If you notice uneven ruffles, you may need to adjust the tension slightly.

7. Start Sewing

• Feed the fabric under the ruffler foot: Place the fabric under the foot, ensuring that it’s aligned with the guide.
• As you begin to sew, the ruffler foot will automatically create pleats or gathers as the fabric moves through.
• Control the speed of your sewing machine to get a consistent ruffle. If needed, help guide the fabric slightly as it moves, but do not force it.

8. Adjustments During Sewing

• If the pleats aren’t forming as you expect, stop sewing and check the settings again (pleat depth and frequency).
• Ensure that the fabric is feeding correctly, and the needle is hitting the fabric at the right points

.

9. Finish

• Once you’ve sewn the desired length of pleated fabric, stop the machine, cut the thread, and remove the fabric from under the ruffler foot.
• If you’ve been gathering fabric, you may want to finish the raw edges using a serger or zigzag stitch.

CREATING A WAIST BAND WITH A RUFFLER FOOT 

Now if you want to create something like a waistband which involves 2 fabrics follow the following steps - 

Align the Fabrics:

• Place the waistband fabric right side up underneath the presser foot. Align it with the back edge of the foot.
• Place the pleated fabric wrong side up on top of the waistband fabric. Ensure this pleated fabric extends a little past the back of the foot.

Stitch the Fabrics Together:

• Lower the presser foot and begin stitching. The ruffler foot will gather the pleated fabric as it moves through, while the flat waistband fabric will remain underneath.
• Gently guide the waistband fabric with your fingers to ensure it doesn't get caught under the presser foot.

Press the Pleats:

• Once you've sewn the two fabrics together, press the pleats on the pleated fabric. This will give a neat, consistent pleated look.

Final Tips for Using the Ruffler:

1. Test First: Always do a test run on scrap fabric before you start on your actual project. This will help you ensure the pleats and gathers are just how you want them and avoid wasting material.
2. Adjust Settings Gradually: Start with a setting that gives you the fullness you want (for example, the "1" setting for full gathers), then experiment with spacing (6 or 12 stitches) to get a more even pleat if necessary. Don’t hesitate to adjust the pleat depth as well for a more dramatic or subtle effect.
3. Fabric Consideration: Choose the appropriate fabric for the ruffler. Firmer fabrics work well with the ruffler, while delicate fabrics (like batiste) might be better suited to a gathering foot. Always make sure the fabric is fed evenly into the ruffler.
4. Check Tension and Needle: Keep an eye on the needle position and ensure the tension is correct for the fabric. Check the needle every once in a while to make sure it's tightly secured. Also, use a straight stitch needle plate to avoid any issues with stitching.
5. Use the Star Setting for Curves: When sewing around curves or tight corners, switch the ruffler to the "Star" setting to avoid unwanted pleats. This allows you to sew the fabric flat and then resume pleating when you’re ready.
6. Play with Fullness: If you're unsure about the fullness you want, start with more fabric and adjust the settings down if necessary. You can always trim extra fabric, but you can’t add it back once it’s gathered.

Remember to test your settings and practice on scrap fabric before diving into your main project. Whether you're adding a ruffle to a pillow, dress, or crinoline, the ruffler offers a quick and effective way to enhance your sewing projects with professional-looking pleats and gathers. With the right setup, the ruffler becomes an indispensable tool for achieving flawless fabric texture and dimension.