A rolled hem presser foot can be a little tricky once you start using it, but once you learn the right techniques and some tricks and practice once or twice, it gets easier and in no time it’ll become your favorite presser foot since it gives the most professional finish to your sewing projects. 

Let’s first understand , 

What is a Rolled Hem Foot/Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot?

Bernina Rolled Hem Presser Foot, also known as a narrow hem foot or roll and shell hemmer presser foot, is designed to sew a narrow, professional-looking hem on light to medium-weight fabrics, making it ideal for sheer fabrics like those used in scarves and blouses. The foot has a small scroll that rolls the fabric's edge, enclosing it as a straight stitch secures the hem. The process is simple once you’re comfortable with this presser foot, it comes in two sizes 2mm Rolled Hem Presser foot and a 4mm Rolled Presser Foot.

Now,

How to use a rolled hem foot?

Here’s a Step by step guide to using the Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot. - 

Prepare the Fabric and Machine

Select lightweight fabric suitable for a narrow hem, like cotton or chiffon.

Attach the rolled hem foot to your sewing machine.

Create an Anchor Stitch

Start by stitching a few stitches (around 3-4) forward and back at the edge of your fabric. This will create an "anchor" that you can hold onto to start the rolled hem.

You can also use a tear-away stabilizer for support, then guide the fabric into the scroll.

Position the Fabric in the Rolled Hem of the Roll and shell hemmer foot

Lift the presser foot, then guide the fabric edge into the groove of the rolled hem foot.

Use the anchor threads to help maneuver the fabric into the foot, ensuring the edge is folded into the groove. This groove helps fold and hold the fabric edge as you sew.

Begin Sewing

Lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly.

Keep the fabric edge aligned with the groove to ensure a consistent width. Adjust with your fingers as needed to guide the fabric.

Make sure that you keep the fabric width even by folding it to fit the groove size.

Continue Feeding the Fabric Evenly

As you sew, gently guide the fabric to keep it aligned in the groove.

Make sure not to pull the fabric, but keep it flat and aligned with the presser foot to achieve a smooth, even hem.

Finish the Hem

Sew to the end of the fabric, keeping it in the groove until you’re finished.

Trim any excess threads, and check your hem to ensure it is even and neatly rolled.

Practice for Best Results

If you're new to using a rolled hem foot, practice on scrap fabric to get comfortable with the technique.

This amazing foot can do much more than just creating professional looking rolled hems, once you master making rolled hems you can discover many other creative techniques of using this presser foot. One such use is couching narrow cords with zigzag stitch.

Now that you’ve learnt how to make rolled hems let us take you through the simple process of couching narrow cords.

Step by step guide to using Bernina roll and shell hemmer foot for couching 

Prepare the Fabric and Mark the Stitch Path

• Use a fabric marking tool to mark the stitching path on your fabric. This will help guide the cord's placement for straight or decorative lines as you sew.

Prepare the Cording

• Insert the narrow cord into the scroll (the small curled area at the front of the foot) and pull it back under the foot. A pin can help guide the cord smoothly through  the scroll if needed.  
  

Position the Fabric and Stabilizer

• Place a wash-away or tear-away stabilizer under the fabric for added support. This is particularly useful for delicate fabrics or to prevent the fabric from puckering while sewing.

Set the Machine Stitch

• Select a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. Adjust the stitch width so that the zigzag stitches go over both sides of the cord without piercing it.

• Set the stitch length to your desired length, depending on the look you want (e.g., a shorter stitch length for a more secure hold or longer for a decorative look).

Position the Fabric and Lower the Foot

• Place the fabric with the cording and stabilizer under the foot, aligning the start of the marked path with the needle position.
• Lower the presser foot to secure the fabric and cord.

Begin Sewing Slowly

• Start sewing slowly, keeping the cord in place by feeding it through the scroll as the machine stitches. Use your right hand to gently guide the cord into the scroll while the zigzag stitch secures it to the fabric.

Continue Guiding and Adjusting

• Continue sewing along the marked path, guiding the fabric and cord as needed to maintain alignment with the marked line.

Finish and Remove Stabilizer

• Once you’ve completed the stitching, carefully remove any excess stabilizer from beneath the fabric. If using wash-away stabilizer, rinse as per the instructions.

Common questions and queries that you might have - 

How to work with slippery fabric:

To manage slippery fabrics with a rolled hem foot, we suggests using a larger surface area to support the fabric. If your sewing machine has a quilting table or extension, attach it so that the fabric isn’t pulled off by gravity. This provides stability and helps the fabric slide evenly under the presser foot.

Compatibility with different sewing machines:

Rolled hem feet can differ depending on the age and model of your machine. For older machines, you may need a one-piece foot that screws directly onto the machine. Newer machines often use snap-on feet with a button-release adapter. If you have an older machine, an adapter can help you use more modern, snap-on feet.

Coming to compatibility of Bernina Rolled Hem presser foot it is compatible with following Bernina sewing machine models.

1125, 125 S, 130, 135, 135 S, 140, 145, 145 S , 150, 153, 153 QE, 155, 160, 163, 165, 170, 180, 185, 200, 210, 220, 230, 230 PE, 240, 430, 435, 440 QE, 450, 630, 640, 730

B 215, Bernina 325, B 330, Bernina 335, Bernina 435, Bernina 475 QE, Bernina 480, B 350 PE, B 380, B 530, Bernina 535,B 540, B 550 QE, B 555, B 560, Bernina 570 QE, Bernina 590, B 580, B 710, Bernina 720, Bernina 740, B 750 QE, Bernina 770 QE/QEE, B 780, B 790, Bernina 790 Plus, B 820 QE, B 830, B 880, Bernina 880 Plus

Hem size inconsistencies:

If the hem keeps shrinking as you sew, it’s likely because the fabric isn’t positioned correctly next to the foot’s guiding bar. To get a consistent hem size, ensure the fabric edge is touching the bar of the foot as it feeds through. If it slides underneath the bar, the hem will get progressively smaller until it disappears.

Using a rolled hem on curved hems or circle skirts:

Rolled hem feet work well on circle skirts or curved hems, as they handle smaller amounts of fabric efficiently, which reduces the need for easing or gathering. This makes it easier to get a smooth, clean hem on rounded edges without extra puckering or bulk.

Finishing a rolled hem in a continuous loop:

To finish a hem in a continuous loop, such as on a circle skirt, leave about an inch unsewn. Keep your needle down, lift the presser foot, and pull the fabric to the side so the needle is out of the cone area. Then, lower the foot and finish sewing to close the hem.

Sewing corners with a rolled hem:

For corners, sewing continuously without stopping may lead to an uneven finish. Instead, sew off the edge, then start again from the other side, aligning the fabric carefully. This helps avoid “bubbling” in the corner and keeps the edge sharp. You may also try folding the corner, sewing it down, then continuing in the new direction.

Sewing over seams:

When sewing over thicker areas, like seams, the presser foot may become uneven, causing the fabric to bunch. To stabilize the foot, you can place a thin piece of cardboard or folded fabric behind it. This keeps the foot level and distributes pressure evenly over the seam as you sew.

Alternatives to using a rolled hem foot:

If you’re struggling with the rolled hem foot, you can roll the hem by hand and use pins to secure it before sewing. However, this can be time-consuming, and pins may slip if you’re working with a large piece. For some, it may be easier to hand-sew a rolled hem rather than using the machine.

We hope these tips and tricks were helpful and that all your questions have been answered. Now, let's get sewing those perfect rolled hems! Happy sewing!