When you’re working with multi layer garments or thick material like denim or making a lined jacket or sewing denim hems the process can result in uneven stitches due to the thickness of the material.
But there are certain tools and techniques that can make sewing thick or layered fabrics much easier and today we’ll walk you through these special tricks and tips for sewing thick materials
1. Flattening the seams
Try to flatten the seams and reduce fabric bulks by trimming at different lengths. For adding a smoother finish use a rubber mallet or tailor’s clapper with a fabric layer in between for protection.
Pro tip - try clips in the place of pins to avoid adding on to the thickness.
2. Using the right needles
A size 90/14 or 100/16 needle is ideal for thicker fabrics. Heavy-duty fabrics like denim or canvas require stronger needles, such as jeans or leather needles. For thread, use a high-quality, strong variety to prevent snapping, and save weaker threads for basting or lightweight seams.
3. Use the right thread
If your thread breaks often, use heavy-duty thread on top, but keep all-purpose thread in the bobbin. Selecting the right needle and thread can make all the difference when sewing thick fabrics. Heavy-duty fabrics like denim or canvas require stronger needles, such as jeans or leather needles. For thread, use a high-quality, strong variety to prevent snapping, and save weaker threads for basting or lightweight seams.
4. Increase stitch length and use a walking foot
Increase the stitch length to 2.5 or 3, and consider using a walking foot to help with difficult areas. Sew slowly, especially over thicker sections. If needed, use the handwheel instead of the foot pedal for control.
If you frequently sew with thick fabrics or quilted layers, consider using a walking foot. A walking foot is designed to help feed thick layers of fabric evenly through the machine, reducing fabric shifting and helping maintain consistent stitch quality. It’s particularly useful for quilting and other projects involving multiple layers.
5. Trimming seam allowances
When top-stitching over thick seams, grade or trim the seam allowance. Stitch a bit further from the edge to avoid the full bulk of the seam. If all fails, sew tricky spots by hand with a thicker needle (size 3 or 4).
6. Levelling of Fabric
If the presser foot isn’t level, the fabric may not move smoothly. Use a leveler tool or a small stack of fabric scraps to help keep it even, and stitch gradually or do the cardboard trick where you place a piece of cardboard or rolled-up fabric under the sewing machine foot to keep it level when sewing thick material. This helps prevent the foot from tilting, improving fabric grip and feed.
7. Tension Adjustment
A tight tension can make stitching through multiple layers difficult, so giving it a little leeway can help the machine feed smoothly through the fabric. Additionally, try a longer stitch length for extremely thick fabrics like denim or leather, as shorter stitches are more likely to create tension issues and break the thread. Test tension and adjust as needed, typically increasing tension and lowering presser foot pressure.
8. The Hump Jumper or Height Compensation Tool
A hump jumper, also known as a height compensation tool, is an underrated but invaluable accessory that often comes with sewing machines. This small tool helps your machine tackle sudden thickness differences, like seams or bulky layers, which can cause skipped stitches or uneven tension. If you don’t have one, a simple piece of cardboard can also work in a pinch.
How to Use a Hump Jumper
When you reach a thick seam, place the hump jumper behind your presser foot. This levels the presser foot and keeps the feed dogs working effectively, letting the machine glide smoothly over the thicker areas without losing stitch quality. It’s especially helpful when hemming jeans or starting a seam at the very edge of thick fabrics.
Remember to experiment with these techniques and find what works best for your machine and materials.